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The island of San Salvador is 12 miles long and 6 miles wide. The main road, called the Queen's Highway, renders views of the shoreline, beaches, touquoise water, cays and reefs. San Salvador has varying terrain that is intriguing to investigate. From the rocky shoreline and breath taking views of the ocean it isn't obvious that there is more to see. There are low areas which abound with tropical plants and fruit trees, there are rolling hills, elevated cliffs into which there are beautiful grottos and mysterious caverns for those who seek them.
The ocean was 10-15 feet higher 1,000's of years ago and has left ancient coral reef and shells which can be easily be found in many sites as well as near the government dock in Cockburn Town. This is a typical settlement, and it is believed it was named after Sir Francis Cockburn, Governor of The Bahamas in approximately 1840. Originally it was called Riding Rocks Settlement, stretching from Riding Rock Point through Cockburn Town. Originally named for the large boulders or rocks that long ago rolled around the ocean floor just off the point. Most of the island business is carried on in Cockburn Town and the government dock is where the mail boat usually docks bringing provisions to the island. Upon arrival of the mail boat excitement is felt as folks scurry to town to retrieve goods shipped in. Devil Tree was named long ago by the property owner who erected a fence around it to keep children from stealing his coconuts. It is also believed that the owner had a "fix" placed on the tree by an obeah man to punish those who would steal his coconuts.
At Long Bay there is a monument of Columbus as this is where Columbus made landfall. A monument is on the floor of the ocean where Columbus dropped anchor on 12 October 1492. On the beach is a plain white cross commemorating the first land discovered in the West Indies. It was erected by historian Ruth D. Wolper and the people of San Salvador in 1956. Many historians agree that San Salvador is the site of the first landfall in the new world of Columbus. In 1680 a pious (word) pirate named John Watling, captain of "Most Holy Trinity" ship was supposedly to have chosen this island as his retreat. In ruins known as Watling's Castle, the window within allows views of both east and west sides of the south end of the island. A likely spot for a pirates stronghold. As romantic as these tales are, local historian, Kathy Gerace, states that the ruins are actually of a late 18th century Loyalist plantation house. Located at Sandy Point, the ruins are the largest of as many as ten estates on the island which consisted of two main areas to each plantation. The yard containing the main house was on a ridge overlooking the the slave quarters which were generally huts. There is a wall built by the slaves to separate the two properties and also pens for cattle. Parts of similar walls are found all over the island. Land was still fertile and farming was done. Many Loyalists granted land by the British government never came to the island; some had grants on several islands. Mouth of Pigeon Creek is a nice spot for shellling and snorkeling. In the plantation days cattle were shipped down the creek from Farquharson's plantation around to French Bay and delivered to the Sandy Point Estate. Another very interesting point is the Pigeon Creek Archeological Site. When Columbus landed on the island he was greeted by peace-loving Arawak Indians. Pigeon Creek was one of the largest Indian villages reported to date in The Bahamas. The Arawaks had made their way from the lowlands of South America sometime between 1000 and 1300 A.D. Also called Lucayans, they were the first inhabitants of these islands. These gentle people thought Columbus and his men were gods from the sky. Soon they were carried off by the Spanish to work as slaves in the mines of Cuba and Haiti. The only trace of their culture are broken clam and conch shells you see scattered. The site has been examined and artifacts collected by archeologists connected with the College of the Finger Lakes. This site proved to be complex because it shows many Indian occupations over a long period of time. San Salvador remained off limits to tourists until the late 1960's because of a secret military tracking station for nuclear missiles. The buildings at Riding Rock Point were built by the Pan American Corporation who were active in tracking the civilian missiles in the Gemini program. It was located at the Navy Base, north of Grahams Harbour. An important figure in history is Rev. Father Chrysostom Schreiner who spent 38 years in The Bahamas and the last three years of his life on San Salvador. He was an authority on Columbus and his uncompleted manuscript was destroyed, a true loss. The people loved and admired him and call him "Catholic Apostle of the Bahamas". Burton Williams, a Loyalist, was granted 40 acres of marsh land in an area known as Run the Risk. Before long he owned hundreds of acres in the Storrs Lake area. He practically became the overseer of the island. The island of San Salvador had become impoverished and Williams feared that there would be no tools left when he died so he chipped his own grave out of limestone, years before his death, directly above the grave of Father Chrysostom. In 1852, when he died, he was right, the only tool his loyal servant had to scrape debris from the grave for his final resting place, was a wooden barrel stave. The Williams family had pretty much abandoned San Salvador except decendent Thomas, who inherited some of the property. Thomas had lost a foot in a boating accident and died about the same time that the U.S. military came to use the island as a missile tracking base in the 50's. However the ghost of this one-footed man has been seen by many, both military members and college students attending the College Center at the Finger Lakes. Dixion Hill Lighthouse was originally built in 1856 and has 400,000 candle power, a visibility of 19 miles. Hand operated, it stands 163 feet above high water and gives a double flash every 25 seconds. It is one of only 4 kerosene lighthouses in The Bahamas and one of ten in the world.
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